If there’s one thing everyone knows about weddings, it’s that all eyes are always on the bride – so from head to toe looking bright is essential. One makeup artist who has played a key role in countless beautiful wedding moments is Hannah Martin. Widely known for being the expert hands behind the Duchess of Cambridge’s radiant wedding day look in 2011, alongside many other royals since, she has dubbed 2021 the year of the ‘DIY bride’, with many many women choosing to make their own brand-up because of the Covid. Here, she shares her trade tips with Vogue.
How to choose your look
“My advice to brides is to avoid doing anything too experimental or far from your usual look. Find a photo of yourself when you looked beautiful and look to recreate similar makeup. , there is a wealth of information on bridal makeup, from makeup artists on Instagram to YouTubers to, of course, excellent Vogue wedding items featuring ambitious brides and ways to mimic elements of their look.
Start with skin care
“For a foolproof makeup outfit, it’s a layered process – and it’s better to take the long road than trying quick fixes that will end up disappointing you. It starts with skin care. For makeup that lasts as long as possible, your skin should be freshly exfoliated the night before so that there is no dull dead skin on the surface that could interfere with the way your foundation sits on the skin.
Many light layers are better than just one super rich moisturizer, which can add way too much oil to the skin’s surface which can cause your foundation to slip off. Cleanse first and then follow with an essence – something water and light based – to hydrate. Follow with an eye cream, followed by a medium weight moisturizer, such as Bobbi Brown Vitamin Enriched Face Primer or Charlotte Tilbury Light Magic Cream. Avoid applying a singular SPF in favor of a skincare formula that incorporates it – this could cause backfire in the photographs.
Ace your base base
“I always want to tell brides that just because it’s your wedding day, it doesn’t mean you have to wear more foundation or a heavier formula. Something that works on all skin types is MAC’s face and body. I often start with a clear coat and then build up coverage with a stick foundation if needed. My holy grail for this is Bobbi Brown’s foundation stick, as you can really manipulate it for the coverage you want in areas like the cheeks, or around the nose and chin – point gently with a tightly tied small brush, like the Hourglass concealer brush. Another good foundation is Luminous Silk by Armani, as it is suitable for all skin types, while brides who want a little more coverage will like Teint Idole by Lancôme. After pointing it until it sinks in, I like to use my fingers just to remove any excess makeup.
Powder is your best friend
“On your wedding day, you have to use powder! A lot of brides are really against it because they think it will create heavy, mushy skin, not the radiant glow they crave – but you can still do that by using setting powder. It is important that it is applied to the T-zone, so in the center of the forehead and between the eyebrows – if you shine in this area, you will see a white spot in your photos, which looks like sweat. Mattify the sides of the nose, the triangle around the mouth, the upper lip and the chin. I don’t advocate the cooking technique as it can dull the skin and make it flat IRL. Products like Laura Mercier’s iconic translucent powder or By Terry’s hyaluronic hydra-powder are great for fixing the skin around the T-zone.
Fixing spray works – but only if used correctly
“While I believe in the power of setting spray, there is a big caveat: you have to follow best practices, as mentioned before, to get to this point. A setting spray will never magically set your makeup if you’ve applied it incorrectly or if you haven’t used powder, which is a strong barrier for oil to seep in. I love Urban Decay All Nighter Fixing Spray.
How to blush
“When it comes to blushing, I always layer. I’m going to make a first coat of cream blush, then dot it in the apple of the cheek. When I fix the rest of the face with powder, I create a light sweep of a similar powder blush on top.
The soft smoky eye 101
“Go back to weddings of yesteryear, like Grace Kelly’s, and you’ll notice that this makeup doesn’t date. Whereas if you go for a thick, cut eyeshadow, you run the risk of looking back 10 years from now and thinking it looks foreign. My advice is to go for a delicate smoky eye during the day. For this, I use much lighter tones than I would for a stereotypical evening smoky eye – think soft moles with a peachy crease or medium gray colors, both of which are timeless. I encourage brides to go for something fresh, pretty, and stylish, a look that will stand the test of time.
Go for a fuzzy finish
“Too much eyeliner and your eyes can look smaller, so while I advocate using it – I use a black shade on almost all of my brides – I make sure to draw the incredibly fine line. trick is to have it run along the outer three-quarters of the eye with a slight extension at the outer corner – not a wing but slightly longer than the eye itself, as everyone is gorgeous with a shape of larger eye Once the liquid line is in place, gently apply a darker powder on top for a softer, more diffused look.
The perfect nude
“I recommend going for a nude lipstick that’s not too different from your natural lip color – that way it won’t look out of place. The secret is always to apply a pencil that matches your natural lip rather than lipstick – that way if the lipstick fades, you have a base coat to go with you until your next one. retouching. I always end with the Clarins Lip Perfector, a nice tinted lip balm that makes all lips supple. This keeps them from looking dry and cracked, but it’s nowhere near as sticky as a lip gloss. I think it looks better on a bride than a fully matte lip, which can look flat and be uncomfortable. “